Lighthouses and Fiona

Nova Scotia (or some subset of Nova Scotians the makeup of which I cannot really imagine) have designated a certain route around the southern coast as the “Lighthouse Route”. There are signs from Yarmouth south and around to Halifax. Being us, we were totally stoked about seeing parts of Nova Scotia that the weather and lack of charts had made difficult, especially the plethora of lighthouses. Also being us, we were surprised to find that the lighthouses had no “scenic overview” not even a pull-off or a car-park from which to see them. Being us, we made due where we could. The first one we could figure out how to get close to, meaning driving down residential roads and parking at a traffic barrier, was the Pubnico Harbour Lighthouse. We ended up thrilled because, across the way, a wind farm flashed in the on-and-off sunlight. We clambered over tide-tumbled rock to get closer to the prize, and found prizes along the way. Also found, assorted evidences of human carelessness, especially lobster bands (what they put around the claws). On the other hand, there was that lighthouse… The natural, the civilized, and the human…all in one incursion of the Atlantic Ocean. Heading south from Yarmouth, we were driving toward Cape Sable. The bounds of the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of Maine are all so much less precise than those land-lines that separate countries, so it’s a little hard to say exactly what bodies of water we were looking at. We were in broken, rocky groups of islands and islets and ledges. Those hazards have always been safer navigated if marked, visually, by lights, and the people who settled here, from the French Acadians to the British battle-hardened to the American Loyalists to the mixed heritage[…]

Read more