The Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway is a bizarre lesson in the surreal.

ICW weirdness

…The (all too) real…

ICW Glass
Abaft on glass
Cetacea in the park but keeping her distance
S/VS.N. Cetacea…home at Great Bridge?

…And the, “I’m totally done with this shit!”

Traveling friends on Tranquila
S/V Tranquilla heading into the Great Bridge

If you’ve been with us you know we like to anchor our boat…

Hook Down Currituck Sound

and the more remote the anchorage the better.

The Sound to ourselves

Sometimes in the ICW we’ve anchored in the packed…

And sometimes we got it all to ourselves without a single boat in sight.

A rainbow overhead

The McMansions that dominate the view to one side of the compass…

…are simply forgotten on the other.

North River, Jarvisburg, NC

Because we prefer a safe, secure, but empty anchorage, we end up stopping in some strange places. Sometimes, though, the ICW and weather constraints put us in queue with other southerly travelers.

Through the Alligator River Bridge
James captained us through the Alligator River Bridge

A combination of the forecasted storms and our desire to avoid repeating parts we’ve done too many times already sent us the Alligator and Pungo River route, rather than around to Manteo in Croatan Sound. We still lost most of the traffic by being so damn slow, and only two other boats chose to stop before the Ditch portion of the river.


Our anchor held securely and we watched the Full Beaver Moon total eclipse very early the next morning…then went back to bed.

By the time we took off, things were looking pretty good up in the river.

Sunset North River
JeBus Beams on the Alligator River

And even a sail-assist doesn’t make us fast.

Sailing down the Ditch
…but it does make us pretty!

The part of this journey that feels interminable, the motoring-sailing through ditch part, is almost over. We’ll be heading offshore from Beaufort Inlet and both our pace and our mileage should improve greatly!

Motorsailing on the Bay River

The boat and her systems are performing beautifully and our heading is a preferable South. On and on we go, like life itself, with the wind and the change.


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