This road is not the Sea

…And this stupid infernal combustion plastic destroyer can’t possibly be a sailboat, but, wow, this country is freaking huge! Drivetime is the place you go in your head when the miles add up to more than the words in the conversation. When the landscape changes faster than you can keep up with. When the road takes over your imagination right before you get too hungry or too caffeine deficient to function…your…mind…takes…over. And then there’s the Blue Highways. They’re the squiggly little lines that connect the back country of the Mid-North American continent to itself. They are the roads that weave our strangely connected communities into a country that is as huge as it is presumptuous, as free as it is enslaved. We drove the Blue Highways from Sallisaw, Oklahoma to Moses Lake, Washington via Kansas, Nebraska, Wyoming, Idaho and the Palouse in about a hundred hours. It was a long and exciting visual extravaganza through some of the most shocking biospheres this continent has to offer. The states are divided in some very strange ways. Sometimes straight lines are laid over the land but other times geology defines the lines in ways that are both obvious and refreshingly not in our control. It’s nice to see humans tune into the realities of our environment enough to give them control over our little maps. That’s pretty cool. Idaho has a national nuclear laboratory that gives a whole area a creepy feel, but even so, the singular mountains stunned the eye. So much land to pass through without feeling it. The bubble of warmth we inhabited included a heated wheel, heated seats, and…well…a heater. And yet, we were visiting the Tetons in February. We only slowed down for some ice-crusted, machine grooved mountain roads that led from the south end of the[…]

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Spies on Bikes

This is our last day in India in 2020 and what a wild ride it’s been. Our friend Prakash came to visit us this past weekend to say goodbye and we all got a big laugh out of our new conspiracy theory. It’s the one where everyone in Thiruvanathapuram (including the Air Force machine-gunner who hangs out, finger on trigger, in front of the gate sometimes) was thinking that we were American Spies in disguise as tourists struggling through the insane Indian traffic on bicycles. We were here gathering information on the cutting-edge space tech and the flagrant abuses of the word “communist”. Of course, what we discovered was ethnic cleansing in the form of Modi and in the mode of Trump and Bonsaro, Johnson, etc etc. In India, the acronyms du jour of hatred are CAA and NRC, but those newish sectarian horrors have a familiar bitterness to the tongue. It’s a bad spy that gets most of their info from news and from stumbling on protests and starving on nationwide general strike days. This time, our third, we completed our co-written manuscript entitled Indoor Boh. I (James) finally finished my pirate radio adventure story called FUCC 89.1 FM and Dena started her new sexy novel The Pound. We had one last Meal at Kochi Peedia out on the highway, this year’s favorite meals haunt. They had all of our favorites today as if they were anticipating our celebration. Samba rice, thick and imperfectly hulled, papadum, avial, kappa, beetroot theyal, pachadi, chimundi, salt-pepper, fish curry, sambhar, the keynote flavor pulissery, and payasam. Daaaaamn. Chitra made us what she calls (for our benefit, I’m sure) fruit salad, which also has chia seeds, sweetened condensed milk, peanuts. Another last-day win. It’s a time of plenty here now that the monsoon is[…]

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